Sunday, July 1, 2012

New York, New York (or technically outside of Trenton, NJ, in route)


I am currently sitting on the bus to New York, waiting for that moment when the current sadness I feel after saying goodbye leaves and the excitement for the trip enters. I am afraid I still have a long way to go. After a tearful (on my end) goodbye to Jason at Union Station, I began the first leg of my journey solo (and slightly nauseous as I stare at the empty bag of goldfish that I habitually consume when I am nervous).

My aim for this blog is not a history lesson, nor a travel journal that merely lists activity after activity, meal after meal, location after location. Instead, I hope to incorporate history into the daily, snip-bits of reflective dialogue into the activity “listing”, and personal thoughts and analysis of Jewish-Christian dialogue that out-detail my to-be-expected, descriptive praises of meals.

The thinking process at least has already begun. I looked out the bus window and saw a large truck in the fast lane, speeding by with a 2 foot by 4 foot Confederate flag waving from its back. My initial reaction isn’t a racist South or the Civil War. My nostalgic reaction stems from happy trips to visit my family in Mississippi and the plantation-dotted car ride to Natchez, where I bought a small Confederate flag of my own when I was 15. I was very proud of that flag—of my family history and its roots. I thought I was “cool” to display it in my bedroom or bust out my Confederate-flag playing cards (that I purchased on a quick college-search trip in San Antonio) for a high-school game of poker. What I did not (or more probably refused to) understand, was that little red cloth, with its star-studded St. Andrew’s cross, was a blanket symbol for racism.

In a very similar manner, I am about to embark on a journey to a country whose more-recent history speaks volumes to perspectives and paradigms, whose past seems to spit out stereotypes, where the white Polish eagle of freedom is stained red by the anti-semitic pogroms and government-sponsored discrimination that occurred after the war. Seeing the Polish national flag may cause resentment and hurt—almost a symbol of anti-semitism—for Polish-Jewish Holocaust survivors and their families. And yet, seeing Israeli youth come to Poland to see only sites of death and mourning before returning home, and touring Auschwitz with Israeli flags draped around their shoulders, I can only wonder if this national symbolism, and the associations different groups have of the symbols belonging to the respective ‘other,’ does more harm than good. (Needless to say, my confederate flag souvenir has long been retired).

It has been a rough road for Poland to say the least, but one that I argue is experiencing positive change. Although the myth of Polish suffering and victimhood to redeem the ‘sins’ of Europe is dying with the older generation, admitting specific Jewish suffering and Polish collaboration with the Nazis is a relatively new phenomenon, buried deep under 45 years of Communist repression and falsification. Poland was a nation on the mend and now is an incredible example of a post-Communist country coming to terms with the past, seeking forgiveness and moving forward, where cities and towns alike are embracing their communities’ past Jewish heritage and traditions despite the physical absence of Jews.  

Being part of this incredible fellowship opportunity run by a Jewish organization (and where all of our group meals will be kosher), I hope to better understand others’ views of Poland. Do Americans and/or Jews still view Poland as racist? Backward?  As uncompromisingly Catholic? As a Jewish graveyard? And I wonder as an outside observer, what connection will I have? As a non-Jewish, non-Catholic, non-Polish woman, will I be able to grasp the complexity of the situation, comprehend the cultural nuances, or even begin to  understand what Communist politics did to a nation in mourning by telling its 'citizens' that Poles—not Jews—suffered in the war against Fascism? What remedy or knowledge will I be able to offer? And will it be listened to?

So as I approach New York City, where so many Jewish immigrants arrived, lived, and prospered, I will synthesize the myriad of  my mind’s complicated thoughts and aspirations to three simple goals: to have an open mind, to be ready to discuss, and eager to listen. Tomorrow is a day packed with a guided tour of the Museum of Jewish Heritage, discussion of our multiple readings (which I am desperately trying to finish), a lecture by David Marwell—the museum’s director, and Holocaust survivor testimony. Then its off to the Lower East Side on Tuesday, and off to Kraków on Wednesday. But let me not get ahead of myself; one thing at a time.

                                    Oldest Jewish Synagogue in the U.S., New York City

Wrócę wkrótce! (I will return soon!)

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